Reconditioning tongue and groove ceiling

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Reconditioning tongue and groove ceiling

Postby MonezMod » Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:37 am

Any tips on reconditioning a pine (I think) tongue and groove ceiling? a few pix at the website below... I don't think the wood has ever been stained or sealed. We have moved/removed a few walls and there is an unacceptable variation in the look of the wood due to sun fade and dirt plus a small patch of paint (ugh!). Has anyone found a product that cleans and seals? What about darkening the wood a shade to conceal imperfections and variations. I couldn't find any discussions on this topic and I'm surprised others haven't had to deal with this problem. I'm really hesitant to do a full sanding due to cost and mess so if there are any success stories let me know. Thanks!



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Postby SDR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 12:04 pm

Oh, there's been discussion. . .!

http://www.lottaliving.com/bb/viewtopic ... ht=ceiling

In your case, I'd say it's

1) Wiggle nails until they break off at or below the surface; set if necessary.

2) Strip and/or sand off paint.

3) Sand entire ceiling to get color closer to unifom.

4) Apply LIGHT stain to lighter areas with a dry brush; be careful at edges of light-colored areas.

5) Paint beams uniformly brown or black.

Sounds good ? Oh, and get name of chiropractor ready. . .

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Re: Reconditioning tongue and groove ceiling

Postby dilettante » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:16 pm


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Postby SDR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:29 pm


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Postby MonezMod » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:56 pm

Thanks SDR and Dilettante for the advice. I'm envious of your redwood ceilings and I have seen the beauty of patinaed T&G redwood. Quite honestly though, we're not too enthralled with the look of our wood. Besides the problems of areas aging differently and the small painted area, the wood is very dull - none of the richness that you're speaking of. It just feels like it needs a little face lift to bring out its true potential.

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Postby dilettante » Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:04 pm

Hey, I just noticed that this is an all-NorCal thread so far! That may be a first.

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Postby SDR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:40 pm

Not sure who's left; there's MarinModern and Miss Retro (?). . .Who am I forgetting ? Barry Peterson !

I can't find the memberlist. . .

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Postby Izzy » Fri Dec 14, 2007 5:50 pm


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Postby SDR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 6:24 pm

Why not ? Pretty straightforward, if not cheap for a lot of nice-looking wood and the labor to install it. . .

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Re: Reconditioning tongue and groove ceiling

Postby bananabobs » Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:42 pm


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Postby SDR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 9:33 pm


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Postby bananabobs » Fri Dec 14, 2007 9:52 pm


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Postby SDR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:01 pm


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Postby rockland » Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:54 am


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Postby johnnyapollo » Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:55 am

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Postby MonezMod » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:25 am


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Postby bananabobs » Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:11 am


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Postby MonezMod » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:00 am

The boards are structural-the roof rests directly on them. They are 2x6 t&g on 8' centers. Amazingly there is very little deflection. I don't think they're DF but it's something i need to figure out because i need to buy some boards to repair a damaged area.

I added some pictures


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Postby SDR » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:09 am

Thanks for those informative definitions, bananabobs. Two ways of building a pitched roof that may look similar but are acting quite differently. I'll look at framing diagrams and photos differently now. . .

I was confusing the (flat) popcorn ceiling with the (pitched) wood roof/ceiling in this thread -- among other gaffes. Whew !

SDR :cheers:

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Postby rockland » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:49 am

[quote]
Thanks also John. The formula included BLO - is that linseed oil? Do you remember how you came across the formula. Were you able to live in the house with the fumes - how long til they dissipated to an OK level?

linseed oil, tung oil. not sure the best to use. boiled linseed seems to be recommended. BLO.
we just built some small bath shelves last weekend, white cedar, stained to match the red cedar walls. i sealed them with tung oil, three coats.
still stinks, but after a week it is dissipating. i've kept the door shut, heat duct shut and have a window cracked. should have waited a week to install,
but i was anxious to get them up. used decking off-cuts and they have been a great addition and keeps everything off the sink counter. (very small bath).

good you have a testing area. but usually recommended to be a spring project with fresh air. but we don't always have perfect weather conditions.

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Postby johnnyapollo » Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:31 am

From what I remember it was half-and-half BLO (boiled linseed oil) and Turp, then doubled with low scent mineral spirits. It actually had a pleasant, rather pine-y smell like oil paints and the mineral spirits knocked back the gloss and gave it that matte finish. Try a little and see what you think. The fumes lasted about a week to the point of not being noticed. We also "fur"ed the walls with one-by material on three walls with horizontal nailers, as those walls were block (basement foundation). Besides giving the room a really rich look, it helped with the accoustics (accoustic ceiling tiles to cover the bottoms of the floor joists for the first floor). The T&G may have been 3/8" instead of 1/2" - it was whatever used to be available at Home Depot in packs (they were 7' or 8' long I think - it's been a long time).

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Postby bananabobs » Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:29 pm

I'll bet big money on Douglas Fir. The one picture you posted, the extreme close up clinched it for me. There is different grades of DF, and different companies interchange them, usually "exposed" is the best framing grade. However, here where it gets weird, the better the grade, the less the knots. Youse gots knots! Lots of knots! Also you will be hard pressed to walk into a lumber yard, (Depot won't have it) and find 2x6 T&G on the shelf, in other words, they will have to special order it and you get what you get, no picking out the good stuff. Shop around to see if anyone has it on the shelf.
BTW the highest grade of DF is vertical grain, almost impossible to find and is up there in price with the exotic woods. It was wood of choice in the Craftsman homes.
BTW #2 I have been in restoration construction for over 30 years, I have a cabinet shop, make custom furniture and will tell you how a Timex is made if asked the time. So if I am too long winded, just tell me. Thanks for letting me play.

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Postby bananabobs » Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:33 pm


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Postby rockland » Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:21 pm


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Postby rockland » Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:27 pm


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Postby rockland » Sat Dec 15, 2007 5:26 pm

just read chapter 17 in the Joseph D Falcone 'how to...' book.
Plank and Beam Framing.
(Woodhead needed some illustrations.)
though i may not retain a peep of it, it was actually an interesting read
to better understand the structure spoken of and the structure of my house...could be doug fir, though nominal two-inch plank pine it could be as
well. or cedar, (sand and sniff test) but cedar looses some of its scent after time...
not really important what it is, just interesting.
but you are looking for some extra boards...
nice house MonezMod. you are tackling a load of work. would like to see some more pics
when you get a chance.


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