Eaves and Rafter Dry Rot Repair Cost

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kraftdee
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Eaves and Rafter Dry Rot Repair Cost

Postby kraftdee » Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:00 pm

The roofers are charging $10,000 for a 1800 sq ft home to cut off rafters and eaves to repair dry rot. Has anyone had this done? IS it a reasonable price?
Our roof is good for another 10 years (this has been confirmed by several roofers) so a whole new roof is not needed right now.

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Stephen
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Re: Eves and Rafter Dry Rot Repair Cost

Postby Stephen » Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:25 pm

Stephen Meade
SoCal Realtor - DRE 01378749
Pacific West Assoc. of Realtors President-Elect
http://www.OCModHomes.com
http://www.CliffMaySocal.com
and
Cliff May Homeowner

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Postby kraftdee » Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:50 pm


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Postby Dallasmodern » Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:04 pm

Stephen's got the right idea. Get a few other quotes.
You'll pay more with a GC than a roofer, but a roofer likely isn't qualified for this kind of repair. In my opinion, eave/ soffit repair should not to be taken lightly considering it is a key defense of channeling water away from the building walls.

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Postby reverb2000 » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:39 am

that actually seems like quite a bit, but it also depends on how far they are having to cut back to find good wood and materials. The roofing company is actually prob. farming the repair out to someone else then adding their markup. Ask for a written quote with exact scope of work to be done, then take that info and ask around. Check craigslist or just post a add with what you need done and ask for a intelligent response. There is alot of people that need work and would be willing to do it cheaper. Just my opionion though

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Postby kraftdee » Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:43 pm

Thanks for your comments. We've had two different recommendations.
Have a carpenter repair the beams and eaves, have the roofing company pull back the roof and reset it.

Or, have the roof completely redone. We've had the roof for 7 years and it's supposed to be good for 15-20 years.

In the end, the cost to repair may be the same as cost to replace.

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Postby sdmod » Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:35 am

Many folks replace rotted wood in their homes unnecessarily. It is expensive and 9 times out of 10 the wood that is used to replace the rotted/damaged wood is more susceptible to future problems....e.g. they replace old growth redwood with pine or fir. I have used this product with great success to save wood that I was told absolutely had to be removed. You might want to see if you can find a contractor familiar with the product who could give you a quote on this method as well.


http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildingandr ... nance.html

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Postby egads » Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:15 am

Isn't this the product that was used to restore the Gamble house?

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Postby reverb2000 » Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:48 pm


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Miguel
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Postby Miguel » Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:10 am

I did quite a bit of rafter repair when I first bought my place because nothing can replace old-growth redwood quite well when rafters are cut and replaced.

At least 4 or 5 of the exposed rafter tips were rotted. I ended up using a two part epoxy/groundwood mix (PC Woody) that hardened very well and allowed an effective repair that can be primed and painted over. PC woody products have worked very well for me. The final result is workable as easily as real wood. The kit also includes a rot-killing resin infusion that is applied before using the two-part epoxy mix. So, the steps are:

1. remove soft damaged wood, while trying to maintain as much intact hard wood as possible.
2. Infuse with resin to kill dry rot and harden damaged wood areas
3. Use 2-part epoxy/groundwood mix to fill in damaged areas
4. Allow full drying before sanding (2-3 days at least)
5. Sand to match remaining wood rafter
7. If desired, to prevent future problems, drill ends and use boron glass rods, as suggested by JGropp in a different thread.
6. Prime, paint and cap rafters.

For info on the product:
http://www.pcepoxy.com/woodproducts/woodrotterm.asp
http://www.pcepoxy.com/woodproducts/woodpcwoody.asp

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Postby kraftdee » Wed Nov 19, 2008 7:38 pm


egads
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Postby egads » Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:30 pm

Try to post pictures (or a link to pictures) of the damage.
Seeing the damage will really help.

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Postby kraftdee » Sun Nov 30, 2008 7:28 am

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32895125@N05/

Thanks, egads. Here are photos. I hope they come through on the link.
Let me know if you have any ideas regarding the following:
1) Worst rafter tails where the damage extends up under the eve: Is it a sound approach to work from underneath? Can these tails be cut back and removed from below - since the tails are nailed to the tongue and groove wood above - without damaging the roof seal of the existing rock and hot mop roof which is currently in good shape?

How do you reattach the new tail to be pieced on to the tongue and groove eve? and still leave the rock and tar roof above undisturbed? is it possible?

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Miguel
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Postby Miguel » Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:16 pm


egads
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Postby egads » Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:53 pm

It's possible to peel back the tar and gravel roof for repairs. I know my neighbor had some roofers come out and remove the T&G from his eves. He
replaced a bunch of rotted eve material. Then the roofers came back and redid just the sections they had to remove.

I agree that in your case it looks like sections of the beams will need to be replaced. As Miguel says, a good carpenter can cut out sections and replace.
This is referred to as a "dutchmen"

I think I would try calling the Gamble House in Pasadena to try and find out who did the restoration work for them. (626) 793-3334

Some times these things just require endless phone calls. I see this working something like this: You find out the name and number of the contractor they used. When you finally get a hold of that contractor you end up getting another referral from them. It's not like there are not a lot of very competent guys out there right now looking for work.

I will try to ask my neighbor who he used for the roofing part. (I need that info myself)

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Postby Slim and Gabby » Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:24 pm

Okay, I did you an image in Photoshop:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93018283@N ... 1/sizes/o/

Does that make sense? It's not that hard of a fix if you're good with your hands. I've simplified it, but not by a lot. I'd close/seal up the seams with Bondo and then paint it with a good primer. If you don't know about Bondo as a house patch, it's about time you found out; this stuff rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've fixed my eaves exactly as in the illustration, and it's as solid as a rock.
Got any questions, ask away!
Slim
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reverb2000
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Postby reverb2000 » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:59 pm

have you gone in the attic to see if you have access to them? That way you could just cut and splice in new pieces.


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