hallway light conundrum

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Joe
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hallway light conundrum

Postby Joe » Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:51 pm

I can't find anything to replace the crappy lights I have now. I would simply replace with recessed lights, but their are no joists above the ceiling to attach them too. it's the low ceiling in my central hall. the light can't be more than 5.5-6 inches tall. the ceiling is flat.

standard globe on base light are too tall at 7.25 inches tall.

anyone have any suggestions??

I don't want to take down the ceiling either. the space is pretty small, so the fixtures can't be too large.

my center hallway used to have copper colored cone down lights like image #18 in this house http://www.portlandmodern.com/forsale/1 ... 1_ssp.html

I am looking for 2 if anyone knows of any.

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scowsa
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Postby scowsa » Sat Apr 18, 2009 9:29 am

Maybe considering a sconce type fixture that would also look OK on a ceiling, such as this one

Image

It only has a 4" projection.


scowsa

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SleazyG
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Postby SleazyG » Sat Apr 18, 2009 10:34 am

I'd look at section B, page 16 of the Primelight catalog. Not sure if it's period appropriate (may be more 60s/70s), but it looks like they have a couple of fixtures with a 6" profile or lower.


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jesgord
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Postby jesgord » Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:24 pm

Something like this



or



lots of options on Ebay...how many do you need?

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SDR
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Postby SDR » Sat Apr 18, 2009 6:20 pm

I suppose you already have boxes in the middle of the ceiling, but. . .

is it too late to consider something like this ? I know these are for drapes, but you get the idea. Couple of small bulbs -- linear LED ? -- and a plywood
or solid wood baffle on angle-brackets. . .

Image

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Postby egads » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:07 pm

Joe, you will have to explain better what is above that hall. Mine is mostly open to the second bedroom. I would suggest a 3" recess using an mr-16 lamp. Perhaps with a remote transformer (very small light weight can) or one of the ones with an electronic transformer. Like these:

http://www.waclighting.com/USA/products/?categoryid=124

The remodel version has clamps that grab the hole they are slipped into.


The problem you will face is that houses of our vintage have the hall three ways wired with the "runners" going through the existing boxes. You may need to pull new wires or use ACCESSIBLE junction boxes.

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Udo Min
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Postby Udo Min » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:07 pm

We might be making some of these fixtures soon.
http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_item_d ... ?id=110099
Neat idea- but to expensive to buy as a vintage piece.
We have a good contact for laser cutting & powder coating metal.

Just have to send them a solid works model with the specs. They would look cool in any color.


Since manufacturing is down prices have come down. So going custom might be an option if you really want those spun aluminum fixtures you used to have.

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Postby Udo Min » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:17 pm

Found this but its still to tall:
http://www.satellitemodern.com/ceiling_lights.html
You could possibly retrofit it or find a way to recess it into you ceiling.

Or for some reason after checking out what I think is your hallway from this photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/barthlow/3 ... 634507741/
I do agree with SDR on bringing more wood into play.
For some reason this mobile comes to mind:
http://www.nova68.com/Merchant2/merchan ... y_Code=20C
Maybe it could be a neat for SDR to come up with a custom fixture for you.
Last edited by Udo Min on Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Postby redneckmodern » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:21 pm

rejuvenation has these -- very similar to the one you mentioned, but they're 8in tall... you might be able to mod them.

http://www.rejuvenation.com/fixshowC743 ... tion.phtml

westelm has this:

http://www.westelm.com/online/store/Pro ... -SH1WALPEN

and

http://www.westelm.com/online/store/Pro ... -SH1WALPEN

resto has this:

http://www.restorationhardware.com/rh/c ... navCount=2

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Postby kandersen » Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:29 am

A remodel can does not need to be attached to a joist--it slips into the hole and has clips that hold it to the drywall. The depth is kind of tight, but you can get a regular 4 inch remodel can in the ceiling. You can also get shallow depth cans for some other sizes (6 inch for sure, maybe 5 inch) if the regular size is too big.

One problem might be insulation--if there is existing insulation, you would need an IC-rated can, which eliminates the 4 inch from the world of possibilities unless you cut out a larger part of your ceiling and install a new-work fixture.

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Postby Joe » Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:02 am

here's my central hall and light that need to be replaced.

looking from guest bath down the door of master bedroom

Image

I replaced them with these, I found at Lowes yesterday. They are not perfect, but better than I had. the glass is more in line with '30s-'40s design, but they will work for now. what's key is scale. many flush mounted lights are too large. these are about the same size

Image

I do want to find these lights. I have seen them in several CMs:

Image

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Postby Miguel » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:15 am


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Postby SDR » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:38 am

I suppose I was hoping for something like this:

Image


The board(s) could be wood, painted or not. The lights could be anything from bare bulbs, to the existing fixtures (assuming enough height
clearance), to a more diffuse, linear source.

Note that I was able to tone down the reflections coming off the vertical surfaces below the ceiling. . .

SDR
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Postby Joe » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:50 am


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Postby Miguel » Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:53 am

One more:
Image
http://www.csnstores.com/Sonneman-4158-XX-SEN1483.html

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but didn't know that many of R. Sonneman designs had been reissued, including the Orbiter counterweight lamps:
http://www.allmodernlighting.com/asp/sh ... erpage=100
Last edited by Miguel on Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Postby SDR » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:05 pm

Joe, the boards shouldn't have to be any lower than the present fixtures, if the glass is removed -- or a "downlight" hole is cut for each flat-bottomed
globe ? An alternate would be a bare bulb, and a diffusing collar of white paper around each bulb, sitting on the board and easily removed for
maintenance.

The clearance through your doors is about 79 1/2" inches, I guess ?

I like your new fixtures, though. Neat and compact.

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Postby Joe » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:23 pm

SDR - doors hug the ceiling with less than 1/4 inch. no wasted space in this place!

miguel - I like the look of that fixture, but it's 10.5 inches wide. something less than 7 inches in diameter would not dominate as much.

sorry, I am a picky b itch :wink:

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Postby Miguel » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:31 pm

Last edited by Miguel on Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby Joe » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:53 pm

about size, glad I guessed right. the closet doors when opening come within 2 inches of the light fixture! so they can't be any wider than the older ones (or the new ones I just installed).

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Postby Joe » Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:02 pm


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Postby Joe » Wed Apr 22, 2009 2:13 pm


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Postby egads » Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:28 pm


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Postby egads » Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:30 pm


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Postby SDR » Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:58 pm

"I laugh in the face of danger! Then I hide until it goes away." Bender

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Postby egads » Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:42 pm

The hall is lined with closets on one side.
Focusing light on artwork is really desirable. Especially in a dark hall. It is also a good way to have indirect lighting. I would encourage dimming lighting on art. A lot more than most people do. One should start from nothing and then ramp up a dimmer so that it is just enough to make the image come alive. More than that will cause a shine.(burn to a lighting designer) Low voltage mr-16 lamps come is many beam spreads. So just enough to cover the art without spill on the wall creates the ambient part. Dimming also cuts the spill. But that light, even directed away from the closet for instance, will be more than enough light with the dimmer ramped all the way up. Most dimmers have a pre-set now. Mine only go to the preset when taped once. A double tap will give you full brightness.

If a 4" can would fit, I would use these, a slot aperture, for directing light to the walls:

http://www.waclighting.com/USA/products ... ductid=827

For the areas without walls to light i would suggest a pin hole for direct down light:

http://www.waclighting.com/USA/products ... ductid=824

Thus spills of light without the source having brightness when looking across the space.

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Postby Joe » Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:22 pm

in the long run, the recessed are probably the way to go. with my bedrooms tore apart I did not want to tear apart the hallway. my wife also depends on the light near the master bedroom entry to see into her closet in the morning. I'll find a task light to fix that.

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Postby egads » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:30 am

Inside a closet, fluorescent lighting is usually required because of heat. A thin under cabinet fixture can be placed toward the front. There is also a new switching system that does not require the usual boring out of the door jam for a button switch. It is a little relay that mounts to a junction box (even a recess can junction box) one uses an alarm contact on the door. They can even be feed with two contacts for double doors. What you are looking for is called: TimeSaver model CR-120v
There is another called Betterswitch, but the quality is not there and they are not UL listed.

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Postby Joe » Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:40 pm


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Postby egads » Thu Apr 23, 2009 7:38 pm



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