Eichler Pantry Door Light Switch

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Balboa Hghlnds Buyer
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Eichler Pantry Door Light Switch

Postby Balboa Hghlnds Buyer » Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:36 am

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Postby Joe » Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:18 am

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Postby egads » Sun Feb 21, 2010 2:42 pm

The originals were probably a door switch, mounted in the jam on the hinge side. When the door closed,
it pushed on the switch. How they were wired I don't know. However, you can use a new item. It uses an
alarm contact that signals a relay mounted either in the switch box or to the electric box the fixture is mounted to. It depends on which one is easier to get tiny low voltage wires to. If the switch is next to the door, that would be easy. Especially since an alarm contact can be on the side opposite the hinge or even a pocket door.

Here's what the old style was like:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/42523 ... ght_Switch

here's the relay, with the different types of door contacts shown below:


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Postby cadman » Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:37 pm

You can still buy these line voltage closet door switches at the box stores for less than $20, but watch out if local codes apply on the type of light (currently) installed. New construction in this area stipulates fluorescent fixtures only in closets.

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Postby turboblown » Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:32 pm

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Postby kandersen » Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:59 pm

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Postby johnnyapollo » Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:40 am

I've noticed the same switches as were originally used in my neighborhood (built in the 60s) in a local Ace Hardware store - same manufacturer even. I'd assume it would be a direct swap as a replacement - if you have switch in another doorway you could look at it and find one similar (or if you're handy, remove and take it with you).

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Postby turboblown » Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:31 am

If not trying to stay original, I still like the idea of a countersunk magnetic reed switch and a relay in a remote mounted box. You could have a common relay box with <24V transformer and control all closet lights with one unit. Kinda similar to GE low-voltage control but on momentary basis.
If you have broken original switches, you could leave them in place for authenticity and add mag switches for the real control.

I've used countersunk mag units and "mud' over them with autobody filler before painting....you never know they're in there!

I'd be glad to help you with design of a LV mag control system if you'd choose that route.

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