Help, we want to remove a shearwall in our ranch house

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Help, we want to remove a shearwall in our ranch house

Postby modernvintage » Sun Mar 06, 2005 10:23 am


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Postby designmatters » Mon Mar 07, 2005 12:02 pm

Good Luck!

Unfortunately, 'low-cost' and 'remove shear wall' in Southern California don't go together. While anything is technically possible, it usually costs.

If you remove that shear wall, you will have to significantly stregthen the roof, and most likely replace the shearwall elsewhere. As you may be aware, steel, concrete, and foundation work is very expensive. It's a lot of work for a typical home renovation.

However, if you do go ahead with the work, definately use a reputable structural engineer, don't rely on your contractor to solve the problem for you!! Even though it means more cost and more time, it's definately worth not waking up one morning with your roof as a bedspread!

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Postby SDR » Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:32 pm


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Remodel

Postby Chimay » Mon Mar 07, 2005 10:26 pm


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Re: Remodel

Postby Sienna » Tue Mar 08, 2005 8:16 am


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Postby SDR » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:05 am


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Shear wall

Postby Chimay » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:12 am


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Shear wall

Postby modernvintage » Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:06 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions. The roof has n=been leaking for some time. We are getting a mold inspection on Thursday and will make a decision to withdraw our offer or move forward at that time. I have added a PDF file of the floorplan detailing the wall.

http://modernvintagefurniture.com/newsletter.htm

Please hit refresh if the link does not show.

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Postby SDR » Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:49 pm

MV -- Thanks for the image. I'm no structural engineer -- but it's not hard to envisage a steel moment frame replacing that wall, with a "leg" at each end, penetrating the ceiling and rising to the ridge, connected in the attic space to a truss that would occupy the height of that space (?), carrying both the roof ridge (if necessary) and the ceiling joists below. This would be shop fabricated and inserted in pieces, bolted together after being inserted -- probably a temporary opening would need to be created in one end of the attic space? That, and some temporary shoring before removal of the wall. Cost? No idea. But certainly do-able.

Looks like a nice, neat floor plan, except maybe for lack of a private route to the larger bathroom from bedrooms 1 and 2. . .

Anybody?

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Postby designmatters » Tue Mar 08, 2005 5:14 pm

I think that there are several differences between Chimay's experience and the project that modernvintage has in mind. It's a lot easier to work on a wall when it's on the outside of the house, the foundation is usually pretty accessible and spanning an opening can be accomplished without too much sweat, as Chimay found.

However, modernvintage wants to remove the wall (as I understand it), needing to replace both shear capacity and still somehow support the roof peak. This wall & foundation isn't accessible to the perimeter, so the work would be more involved.

SDR's idea is certainlay do-able, but I suspect it would be cost prohibitive. Steel in general, and moment frames no less are very costly, usually out of reach of most home renovation projects.

The plan that was posted is a good help, and I can see why you'd want that wall removed. Best of Luck!

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Postby L.A.kevin » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:07 pm

I seem to remember an article in Dwell where someone used a Glue-lam beam (I probably have the spelling all wrong) for an application just like this.

Kevin

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Shear wall

Postby modernvintage » Wed Mar 09, 2005 10:56 am

I did an second story addition in Orange county years ago. I added a steel column in a 8X4X4 concrete footing to add shear to the garage to support the second story.

I suppose two steel columns supporting a steel or glue lam beam in concrete footings to supprt the roof. The only other problem would be supporting the roof when the beam is inserted in place of the wall. Some temporary support for the roof would be necessary.

See more photos at http://modernvintagefurniture.com/newsletter.htm

Still waiting on the mold inspection. Thanks for all the suggestions.

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Postby SDR » Wed Mar 09, 2005 11:46 am

Neat house -- I like the masonry landscape elements. Wonder if that garage door is still made?

Have you been into the attic space? What sort of support does the ridge receive now? Many gable roofs are not supported directly from below, but instead are made rigid by virtue of the triangle created by the two roof planes and the floor plane -- leaving an open and usable attic space. Perhaps this in not the case with your 3-in-12 (?) roof. . .

Is there a crawl spce below the floor, or are you on a slab?

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If the house is one

Postby modfan » Wed Mar 09, 2005 2:59 pm


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Postby SDR » Wed Mar 09, 2005 3:13 pm


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Postby Joe » Wed Mar 09, 2005 3:24 pm


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Shear wall

Postby modernvintage » Thu Mar 10, 2005 7:08 pm


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Postby moderns-r-us » Thu Mar 10, 2005 7:30 pm


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Postby SDR » Thu Mar 10, 2005 7:44 pm


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Paul Edward Tay

Postby modernvintage » Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:47 am

Here are some photos of The Paul Edward Tay in Long Beach

[img]http://modernvintagefurniture.com/March%202005/Lemon_002.jpg

[img]http://modernvintagefurniture.com/March%202005/Lemon_004.jpg

[img]http://modernvintagefurniture.com/March%202005/Lemon_007.jpg

[img]http://modernvintagefurniture.com/March%202005/Lemon_008.jpg

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Postby SDR » Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:52 am

MV -- Can you modify those links ? I'm not finding them on your site. . .

SDR

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Paul Tay Photos

Postby modernvintage » Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:53 am

Well that didn't work, here's the link

http://modernvintagefurniture.com/newsletter.htm

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Postby SDR » Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:05 am

Sweet! Cliff May-like window wall, but stopping short of the floor. Wrightian "light deck" and unusual stacked-Roman-brick fireplace.

It could be cleaned up. . .?

SDR


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