Nelson light question

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wwilber
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Nelson light question

Postby wwilber » Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:28 am

I will be installing a new Neson saucer light in my dining area when it arrives this week and have a couple of questions regarding the installation:

Because of the locatioin of the electrical box, I will be swagging the cord. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions for an appropriate hook to use for this, and also what the best way to keep the cord in place on the hook would be. Any help greatly appreciated!! :-O:

Nate
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Postby SDR » Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:10 am

If you are planning to keep this fixture in its new location indefinitely, it would certainly be nice if you could manage to relocate the ceiling box. This can be done (more easily if the ceiling joists run in the appropriate direction, but not impossible in any event) but will of course require some sheetrock/plaster repair and repainting.

Barring THAT, you can run surface-mounted wire-way to a new box on the ceiling, or you can swag. (I asume you've been through all this already.) Swagging is the least troublesome of these options, of course -- but the typical hardware supplied by every lamp store in the country (as far as I know) is a nasty scrolled/decorated hook and (gulp) chain -- not at all appropriate for a contemporary look.

If the cord that comes with the fixture isn't long enough to go from the present ceiling plate to a hook over the required spot (either flat on the ceiling or draped in the typical "swag") and down to the desired height, then you'll have to replace it with a longer piece. This is probably a round-jacketed cord designed to bear the weight of the fixture, available at the lamp store or Home Despot. A plain closed-ring eye-hook of number 10 or 12 diameter with wood-screw or machine-screw thread (depending on the fastener) and a good plastic or metal spread-open hollow-wall fastener that is a good fit for it, covering any hole necessary to install it with a fender washer painted to match the ceiling.

If you can't find a wiring device made to crimp or clamp onto your hanging cord at the eyehook, to prevent the cord from sliding through the hook, then you can make that point secure by tying the cord to itself with some appropriate-colored heavy sewing thread or a small plastic-and-wire tie-tie neatly applied and twisted, with the ends pruned. Or an upholtery shop can give you a hog-ring that you can squeeze around the wire with pliers.

Is any of this obscure ? I'll illustrate if necessary. Best of luck.

SDR
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Postby scowsa » Sun Apr 22, 2007 12:08 pm

We used a simple white hook (a classic, larger version of the "cup hook",) given the cord is white, and I do not recall any problems finding one.

We have found that the weight of the light fixture is sufficent to keep the supplied cord (about 4' with the Modernica version) nice and straight.

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Postby wwilber » Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:34 pm

SDR,

Your comments are pretty much right on with what I had in mind, and have let me know that I am on the right track. The lamp cord supplied with the light should be plenty long enough, so I am hoping that won't be any issue, and your reccomendations are most helpful.

Ideally, I would relocate the electrical box, because it is only about 2' from where it needs to be. The only reason I hesitate to do so is because of the ceiling texture. It has that very subtle, but noticeable, semi-circle swirl pattern to it. Altough softened by many coats of paint, it is very difficult to patch without an obvious and visible repair. While most people probably wouldn't notice it, I would go nuts if there was even the slightest evidence of a patch. Also, the existing box was originally mounted in the correct location-dead center of the room. However, there is a doorway to a room addition that requires traffic flow through the dining area, and therefore the dining table must be situated to allow for this.

I am glad that everyone on this board understands that the position of a simple fixture can be a complicated process with much thought and detail. :) Most others would probably be content with the ugly ceiling fan that I am all to happy to get rid of. I will post some pics when installation is complete!
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Postby britepepper » Sun Apr 22, 2007 8:11 pm

One solution is to make a small loop in the cord where you want it to hang and then bind it together with a white zip tie. Cut off the extra bit of the tie and hang the loop on a ceiling hook. I've done it a number of times and it works really well.

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Postby SDR » Sun Apr 22, 2007 8:32 pm

You said that way better than I did. :oops: Thanks !
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Postby britepepper » Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:09 pm

I guess I should also read the entire thread before posting! :oops:

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Postby SDR » Mon Apr 23, 2007 4:45 pm

"I laugh in the face of danger! Then I hide until it goes away." Bender

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wwilber
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Postby wwilber » Mon Apr 23, 2007 9:09 pm

I'll take a long-winded recipe any day! Better to have too much good information than not enough!
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Postby googieagog » Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:15 pm


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Postby bitzala » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:56 pm

wwilber-- we installed a Nelson saucer and were faced with a similar situation... but took a different path.

Our box is on our roof, and the wiring extended down through a beam. I wanted the light to hang from a spot on the beam about 2 feet to the left of where it came through. We had our electrician scrape out a little tunnel in the beam, imbed the wire into the tunnel, and then patch it over with some kind of wood patching material. So the saucer hangs without a swag.

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Postby SDR » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:22 pm

Sounds like a nice solution to a unique problem/opportunity, Bitzala ! Your electrician is a man of many talents. . .

That's sweet, Googie. Yes, there were many kinds of height-adjustable lighting in the 'fifties. There were several versions of a wall-mounted light whose cord ran through an extension arm and down the wall to (and past) a weight. And of course there was the Lightolier (and others ?) cord-mounted take-up reel in the middle of the drop cord of a ceiling-mounted fixture. We had one over the dining table when I was in high school. These still show up occasionally.

SDR :cheers:
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Postby wwilber » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:48 pm

The counter weight idea is interesting. I hadn't thought of that, but I'm not sure if the distance between the box and the lamp would be enough to permit that in my instance. Very resourceful use of materials to accomplish a very polished look!

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Postby SDR » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:14 pm

Perhaps a simple and honest arc of wire descending from the ceiling between the existing box and the new location is the best thing. You certainly don't want to mess with that ceiling texture. . .

SDR
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Postby STLModern » Fri Jun 01, 2007 12:06 pm

Where are the pics? I just hung two 36" saucer lamps in my new dig!

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rockland
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Postby rockland » Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:29 pm

pictures would be great.
i wish there was a quicky way.(to post pics)
love to share pics of my original lights hanging from the cross beams!
wierd. some are mounted on the t&g ceiling. but most are mounted into!!
the beams!!. bugs me anyway...and some can lights, side by side are not
level with each other....fixing it. so being picky about hardware and hook
quality is not obsessive. well maybe a little bit...but you do 'see' it every
day. if you do move the box fixture, you could fix the ty-in with a small brush and a hair comb. (the swirlly ceiling tecture stuff), jc and carp glue paste.
i've moved many of my lights with ceiling color hooks. dark ceiling helps,
but grainger and mcmaster carr have some that will not remind you of
'cup hooks'.
and then my front door lockset froze and my mailbox front door fell off.
oy,vey, thought i could put that off for another season...

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rockland
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Postby rockland » Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:03 am



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