Restoring a Slate Floor?

Home improvement Q&A, pictures and news fro Mid Century Modern Homes and Houses(NOT for Real Estate)

Moderators: I_LUV_POWER!!!!, Joe, Adriene, moderns-r-us, Tony, Futura Girl, nichols, Java

blissing
Modern Groupie
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:54 pm
Location: Oakland, CA

Restoring a Slate Floor?

Postby blissing » Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:05 am

I have a '57 vintage random slate floor. The previous owners had it sealed with something...something plasticky... and had all the mortar joints painted black.

Some of the coating has scratched off due to moving chairs, etc., and it looks terrible. There are people who can remove the coating but it takes 2-3 days and you can't be in the house, besides it costing $2,800 for ~350 sq. feet!

Here's what it looks like. I'm having the cracked mortar repaired and some tiles reset, but the finish--ach! Any thoughts on how to save money on this?

Image

egads
Mondo Lounge Lizard
Posts: 1671
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:25 pm
Location: Long Beach CA

Postby egads » Fri Feb 15, 2013 11:41 am

I might try a product from theses guys:

http://www.franmar.com/

I used their mastic remover on my floors. Really non toxic, low odor. They do show a paint remover. There are also new products available at HD/Lowes like places based on orange oil. Those are still nasty in terms of burning skin if used without gloves, but also really low odor.

The problem with trying any of this yourself is: once you start you have to finish. You must protect all adjacent surfaces. If wall to wall carpet abuts it, you will have to pull it back. I say this because once you loosen the sealer it may take a wire or plastic bristle brush to get it out of cracks & crevices. sh*t will fly everywhere. The grout is going to take some serious scrapping.

There is one advantage to dyi besides cost, you can do it a little at a time.
Once you have tried several products and methods, you should have a good idea of how much you can tackle in a weekend. It may take several coats, letting them stand to soften each time. The times in between will probably make the floor even stickier. So I encourage you to work in sections so the space can be walked through. Having used the bean-e-do mastic remover, I was horrified to see photos of others doing whole rooms at a time. I wondered how they moved in the space for the next steps. One thing one does with the mastic remover that might also work for whatever you use is to absorb the puddles of muck with a absorbent like is used for garage floor oil clean up.

User avatar
johnnyapollo
Special Secret Modern Agent
Posts: 632
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 7:28 pm
Location: Atlanta GA
Contact:

Postby johnnyapollo » Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:48 am

Personally I've found it very hard to seal slate floors - I've had several friends who have had that beautiful jade green slate that decided to rip it up because it was so hard to keep clean. The maintenance is a nightmare. I think it's more due to the material itself. Slate tends to sheet off much like graphite as it wears creating many "micro abrasions" that end up holding dirt. I think that's why you see this stuff sealed under layers some some clear epoxy substance (which doesn't seem to last very long). I'm not sure if there is a good solution for this.
"Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away."
Philip K. Dick

Desperately Seeking Modern
http://modernseeker.blogspot.com

User avatar
classic form
Special Secret Modern Agent
Posts: 731
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 7:23 am
Location: Kalamazoo, Mich.

Postby classic form » Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:45 am


User avatar
johnnyapollo
Special Secret Modern Agent
Posts: 632
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 7:28 pm
Location: Atlanta GA
Contact:

Postby johnnyapollo » Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:14 am

"Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away."

Philip K. Dick



Desperately Seeking Modern

http://modernseeker.blogspot.com

User avatar
classic form
Special Secret Modern Agent
Posts: 731
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 7:23 am
Location: Kalamazoo, Mich.

Postby classic form » Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:09 am

Yes...Pure Tung Oil.
Here is what I used:

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

Slate coping on top of brick wall, notice blotchiness of slate in before pic.

OK...not the best before and after but gives you a little idea.



During tour of house for sale.

Image



After (current state)

Image

Image

User avatar
rockland
Mondo Lounge Lizard
Posts: 1504
Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 8:45 am
Location: wesley hills,NY

step-by-step

Postby rockland » Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:19 am

Good directions here...just skip to the step-by-step.
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/article-fryingpan.html

Best advice is the use of a squeegie. Your grout may need a good scrub brush. If your grout needs to be darkened after being cleaned, i suppose it could be stained to penetrate. (before the tung oil)
First coat of oil should be thinned and traditionally would be paint thinner that needs lots of fresh air to evaporate and is toxic...but they have a citrus thinner that is non-toxic.

This really is a great non-toxic solution for stripping and refinishing. I did my hall last spring and will be re-finishing my din/liv rm soon.

User avatar
johnnyapollo
Special Secret Modern Agent
Posts: 632
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 7:28 pm
Location: Atlanta GA
Contact:

Postby johnnyapollo » Mon Feb 18, 2013 5:08 am

Thanks for clarifying. I'm going to order some and try it on some wood projects - I'd like to see how it finishes...

Edit: Ordered both the light and dark. I'll report in after I try it out...

Edit2: Update - got the bottles in the mail, super quick shipping. I like the smell and will let you know how it finishes out.

-- John
"Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away."

Philip K. Dick



Desperately Seeking Modern

http://modernseeker.blogspot.com

alicerobert
Modern Groupie
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:36 pm
Location: united states

Postby alicerobert » Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:40 pm

Thank you ... I like this forum very much because it is very informative ... ***
long leather coats women
g-1 flight jacket


Return to “Mid Century Modern Houses and Homes”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests